How 'Coco Chanel of the East' Restyled Hungary's Image | Reporting Democracy

How 'Coco Chanel of the East' Restyled Hungary's Image | Reporting Democracy - Balkan Insight

Posted: 28 Jan 2020 12:00 AM PST

Under the communist regime, her salon was nationalised in 1949, though she was later allowed to "lead" it. Unlike most Hungarians, she was able to travel abroad, visiting fashion shows in Paris and even buying a few foreign designs with state money, which she recreated with a Hungarian twist.

She adored fragrance, and both her salon and fashion shows were always enveloped in the latest French perfumes.

Political leaders soon cottoned on to her unique marketing value. When foreign dignitaries arrived, a visit to Klara's salon was often included in the official programme.

Political leaders soon cottoned on to her unique marketing value. When foreign dignitaries arrived, a visit to Klara's salon was often included in the official programme.

Jovanka Broz, Tito's wife, visited her salon with the wife of Hungary's communist leader, János Kádár, and instantly fell in love with her creations. She became a faithful client.

"There was a tailor dummy/mannequin, featuring the sizes of Ms Broz," one of Rotschild's former models says in a video accompanying the exhibition. "Whenever she selected a dress, we adjusted it to her size. She was around 100 kilos, and when she put on some more weight, a pillow was attached to the dummy, to extend the size."

Hungary's political leaders were hardly fashionistas, but diplomats, lawyers, doctors, artists and emigres constituted a big enough crowd to keep the business afloat.

Some came by private jet and ordered dresses for a complete season. Others picked just a few.

A Klara Rotschild dress was expensive. "It costs between $200 and $800, and an evening gown around $1,000," Rotschild said in a rare TV documentary by Austrian broadcaster ORF.

At the time, the average Hungarian worker earned around $80 a month. That meant Rotschild dresses were far beyond the reach of most people in a society that claimed to be based on equality.

"Just passing by her salon and seeing the dresses in the shop window was an artistic experience," said one elderly woman at the exhibition. "We never thought we could have enough money to buy a dress there."

In Hungary, after Soviet tanks crushed a popular uprising in 1956, Rotschild came to symbolise socialism with a human face despite the tyrannies of communism. Her creations evoked a society in which girls are pretty and life is more colourful than in the rest of the Eastern bloc.

In Hungary, after Soviet tanks crushed a popular uprising in 1956, Rotschild came to symbolise socialism with a human face despite the tyrannies of communism.

"Women had to be ladylike, well-dressed, feminine and somewhat distant," said one of her models in rare footage on display at the exhibition.

Even scandals did her good since Rotschild knew the power of tongue-wagging to build brand awareness.

Early in her career, a young Hungarian playboy insulted and beat her when she went to collect money for some suits made by her father. Klara went to court to sue for compensation and won. The case helped establish her fame.

Later, in 1968, when Hungarian-born Hollywood actress Zsa zsa Gabor refused to pay her, she sold her dresses to other clients and was not shy about dishing dirt to the media.

"She was a master in tailoring but she was a perfect salesperson, too, who knew instantly which model would look good on a client," Simonovics said.

A file photo dated October 8, 1968 shows Hungarian-born US actress Zsa Zsa Gabor (right) trying on a robe in the Rotschild Fashion Studio in Budapest. Photo: EPA/ENDRE FRIEDMANN

Even after her brand was established, she actively "hunted" for clients. When she learned that Hollywood icons Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton were in town, she sent her saleswoman to their hotel and invited them to her salon. The fact that Rotschild herself did not speak a word of English or German was not a hindrance. Her clothes spoke for themselves.

Her life ended tragically. Aged 73, dreading retirement and in pain due to dental problems, she committed suicide, jumping from the kitchen window of her apartment.

Her salon got a new manager but it never achieved the fame it enjoyed during Rotschild's reign.

There are no plans to revive Rotschild's brand in Hungary, but the Orban regime has a good eye for fashion — at least in political terms.

"Politics has always gone hand in hand with fashion," Simonovics said. "The image, the clothes we wear are part of a country's PR."